Diner’s Journal embraces news and opinion about recipes, wine, restaurants and other matters culinary. Contributors include Eric Asimov, Melissa Clark, Glenn Collins, Susan Edgerley, Florence Fabricant, Patrick Farrell, Nick Fox, Jeff Gordinier, Elaine Louie, Julia Moskin, Robert Simonson, David Tanis, Emily Weinstein, Pete Wells and others.

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This article originally appeared on: http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/07/10/bills-gay-nineties-to-be-reborn-as-bills/